If you’ve ever heard about the safety records of African airlines, you will understand why I was slightly nervous about flying Rwandair. Fortunately my concerns were completely unfounded, and both the flight and the accompanying service were flawless. Flying into Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro airport we had a stunning view of one of the eponymous mountain’s smaller siblings, Mount Meru, poking through the cloud cover. Almost clear, but not quite. This turned out to be a sign of the week to come.